Just two decades ago, Buffalo possessed only a smattering of outposts offering fare from Asia, South America, Central America and Africa. Procuring even an approximation of an authentic Mexican taco in Western New York, at the time, was just not an option.
Today the abundance of immigrant-driven fare in our region offers opportunity and financial stability to new Buffalonians and their families—and improves access to fresh healthy food at exceedingly fair prices for diners. Tomorrow’s “local” favorites will most certainly be affected by the cornucopia of ingredients, techniques and flavors demonstrated in the immigrant kitchens of today.
Newly landed cuisines in our region (and others) are often appreciated first by food and drink professionals, many of whom pride themselves on adding new dishes and destinations to their restaurant rotation. It makes sense—and not just because chefs and their ilk are less intimidated by unfamiliar foods—but also because they tend to seek out affordable, flavor-forward meals, often during the day or late at night.
In celebration of Buffalo’s global bounty, we asked five professional chefs to share their most frequent order from a favorite spot.
Massman Curry with Chicken
Tiny Thai | Buffalo
Matthew Gunther and his wife, Courtney, recently opened Allentown’s Bidwell, a reservation-only restaurant offering a set menu of nine seasonally inspired courses three nights a week. In just a few months Bidwell has gained a following, selling out its reservations for each month in under 15 minutes.
“Buffalo is doing a good job of providing space for people to cook their style of food,” says Gunther.
Gunther spent many years in Manhattan working in the kitchens of the best and the brightest: Tom Colicchio, Danny Meyer and Gabriel Kreuther. He and Courtney moved to Buffalo mid-pandemic to raise their young son and open their own dinner party-inspired restaurant.
He loves the food he’s had from the Tiny Thai food truck, which works out of a commercial kitchen space on Chandler Street in Black Rock and vends from its truck in various locations.
“When I first took a bite of her Massaman Curry it was one of those revelatory moments where you think, ‘Ooohh, so that’s what this is supposed to taste like!’ ”
Massaman Curry is a fusion dish, a 17th century mashup of Persian, Indian and Thai flavors featuring red curry paste, peanuts, cumin, nutmeg, cardamom, cinnamon, star anise and coriander cooked in coconut milk. Protein and/or vegetables are then simmered in the resulting sauce until they reach peak tenderness before being spooned into a bowl and served with flatbread.
“The curry is expertly seasoned and spiced. The chicken is so tender, and the potatoes and carrots are soft. Who doesn’t like soft carrots from a stew or braise?” says Gunther, who also finds Tiny Thai’s Khao Man Gai satisfying and another “a-ha” dish.
“Food is universal and a great way to build bridges,” he says, suggesting intimidated diners find a dish “where you recognize some of the ingredients and give it a go!”
Barbacoa, Asada & Carnitas Tacos
La Divina Tacos | Kenmore
Amanda Amico first visited La Davina in 2015. It’s not far from the home she shares with her wife and children. The grocery store and taco shop quickly became a family favorite. The fresh toppings and genuine corn tortillas are what she loves most, and the barbacoa, asada and carnitas tacos are her three “go tos,” though sometimes pollo makes an appearance.
Amico is the face of Amy’s Food Truck and the mastermind behind the menu of modern classics at Swan Street Diner. Her penchant for comfort food extends beyond the menus at both Amy’s and Swan Street—it’s also her preference.
“I’ve created memories with my family at La Divina,” she explains. “It’s my 4-year-old’s first pick for lunch or dinner. It offers quick counter service, and you top the tacos yourself.”
In addition to the fresh and seasoned meats, Amico cites the variety of housemade sauces, the pico de gallo and La Davina’s fresh, warm grilled corn tortillas as the real differentiators.
“As a Buffalonian, there’s a place in my heart for Mighty, but these tacos just aren’t the same thing. La Davina is simple, fresh and wonderful. I had never had tacos like these before. And now that we’re talking about them, they’re all I can think about!”
Thai Beef Salad
Nine & Night | Buffalo
Known for his outrageously delicious Texas-style barbecue by way of South India, Ryan Fernandez moved to Buffalo from The Lone Star state about five years ago. The tech world kept him busy for the first half of his career, but he wanted to cook. A stint at the former Aro Bar de Tapas was followed by a few years as manager of the bustling kitchen at Lloyd’s Hertel Avenue location before Fernandez decided to do his own thing, launching Southern Junction.
His current takeout fave is the Thai Beef Salad at Nine & Night, located inside the West Side Bazaar.
Lydia Herr, a skilled baker and cook in her own right, works across the lot from Fernanadez’s kitchen at Flat #12 Mushrooms. She turned Fernandez onto the dish when they were first dating. During the workday the couple often shares a meal, and this dish is among their favorites.
“At Nine & Night, the medium is hot and the hot is very hot,” warns Fernandez. “The Beef Salad is very hot, and maybe not much of a salad? It might be called that because of the fresh tomatoes, I’m not sure. But it’s really pungent and spicy beef with a ton of chilis and cilantro, some soy, lots of nuoc cham fish sauce and a little oil. I just dump a bunch of white rice on it and it soaks up all the juices. It’s so much food and it’s so good. I don’t know how they can do it for $10 bucks.”
“And it’s large enough for two people to share,” says Herr, an adventurous eater who often surprises those who cook for her with her tolerance for heat. “When we first started dating, I told him how every time I order something spicy at a Burmese or Thai restaurant, they always ask if I’m sure that’s what I want. They warn me how hot it will be. Ryan didn’t believe me until he witnessed it himself, but it happens all the time!”
Chicken Makhni
Clay Handi | Kenmore
After buying a home not far from Kenmore’s central business district, Chef Edward Forster scouted the area for the best food.
He and wife Jessica, a sommelier, are two of the five owners responsible for Waxlight Bar à Vin. The duo often share a meal from Clay Handi—the chicken makhana is a favorite.
“It’s basically butter chicken,” the chef notes. “The sauce is nuanced, and the texture of the chicken is outstanding. It’s an easy first-time order and will help you become acquainted with the restaurant’s food. Maybe it will inspire you to venture on to try other items on the menu.”
Butter chicken is an Indian dish from Delhi invented in the 1950s. Made of tender chicken and a flavorful, well-spiced butter-and-tomato-based broth, it’s very popular all over the world.
“We always get takeout from Clay Handi. We cover the coffee table with our treasure: chana chaat, pakora, amona, paani poori and the super fun chicken achari. I just rip off a piece of naan, scoop up rice and whatever deliciousness is closest and go to town.”
Forster, who is from Buffalo but attended the Culinary Art Institute in Hyde Park before cooking in Chicago under Graham Elliott and at the Michelin-starred Blackbird, returned to Buffalo a decade ago. In between graduating and moving to Chicago he worked in London under Chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten at Vong. As a young cook, it was in London that he learned to love global fare, and recalls a time when he’d wander the streets to “eat anything that seemed unfamiliar.”
“It’s easy to find a favorite and to want to order it again and again. Branching out allows for a broader perspective of that cuisine,” remarks Forster.
He also recommends befriending more adventurous diners if you’re eager to try new things. “If everyone shares a table of dishes,” he says, “it really softens the risk.”
Onion Beef
Peking Quick One | Tonawanda
“I am totally in love with the not-so-secret secret menu at Peking Quick One,” says Skylar Pratt, referring to the veritable Mecca for Western New York foodies in search of homestyle Northern Chinese dishes.
Peking Quick One’s bread and butter (or General Tso’s and Sweet and Sour Chicken) comes from a bustling takeout business that draws on the small restaurant’s more Americanized menu—but the real deal is the formerly secret menu that’s really no secret at all.
“The fried string beans, leek and shrimp dumplings—these are so hard to resist. But I have to go with the onion beef,” says Pratt when asked to pick a favorite. “I order it every single time. It’s so flavorful and simple. I recommend you have it when you’re sad, cold or tired. Put on a show you’ve already watched a million times, cuddle up with a blanket and your pets or partner—just don’t let them steal the last dumpling. And don’t worry about spilling sauce on your blanket. The whole experience is totally worth it.”
Currently working as the chef at Community Beer Works, Pratt first made a name for herself at The Gypsy Parlor, turning out better fare than one might expect from an (at the time) off-the-beaten-path tavern. She also worked as a roundsman at Osteria 166 for a time.
“The first time I ate at Quick One, it was with another restaurant industry person. We just ordered one of everything. I’d had plenty of experience with Americanized Chinese food and was not a fan. Once I ate at Peking, my limiting beliefs were changed. Turns out I don’t hate Chinese food at all, I hate bad Americanized Chinese food!”
