Anthropologists consider bread the foundation of civilization. In its fermented, leavened form, it’s credited with fueling humankind’s shift from nomadic hunter gatherers to settled communities of agrarians.
Fermentation is the step that transforms milled whole grains into a digestible staple, naturally extends a bread’s shelf life and creates the rise that allows for a lighter and loftier loaf. Bread made this way is nutritious and beneficial for gut health. (Supermarket bread made with processed flours, preservatives and additives is a nutritionally vacuous third cousin to that which sustained our ancestors through thousands of cold winters.)
Baguettes in the making from Anastasia’s Artisan Bread.
As the community’s desire for scratch-made, nutrient-dense loaves grows, local bakers are rising to meet the demand. Here are five artisan bakers we’re excited about.
Anastasia’s Artisan Bread
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Williamsville | anastasiasbread.com
Dedicated to an old-world process using a mother/starter and cold fermentation, Anastasia Nikolaeva bakes an assortment of loaves using organic flour in her certified home kitchen. Breads, cookies and other sweets can also be procured through her delivery service or at Overwinter Coffee locations, Little Black Heart Coffee and Script’s Cafe.
Art’s Café
Springville | artscafespringville.com
Springville’s community owned cafe adopted a bread program when Covid-related delays allowed ample time to experiment. Allison Duwe’s rotating menu of stunning loaves made from Farmer Ground Flour and featuring local ingredients are the cornerstone of the cafe’s menu. They can also be found for sale at the cafe and East Aurora Co-op.
Baggit’s Bread
Orchard Park | Find on Facebook
Italian ciabatta-style bread is Deborah McKenna Smith’s specialty. European travel left her disappointed with local loaves. After a year of effort, her perfected recipe allowed her to furnish her family with fresh bread. Several years later she launched Baggit’s Bread. Made with unbromated flour, active yeast and a short, warm rise, Baggit’s Bread can be acquired at the Hamburg Farmers Market and Roswell Park’s Market in the Park.
Dopest Dough
East Aurora | dopestdough.com
Joe White, the lead singer and bassist of Made Violent, began baking as post-surgery rehabilitation for carpal tunnel. His golden brown, cold fermented sourdough loaves, bagels and cookies have quickly earned a following among the region’s food cognoscenti. Made with Farmer Ground Flour, Dopest Dough’s goods can be found on restaurant menus all over the region and for retail sale at select locations; check the website for info.
Savage Wheat
East Aurora | savagewheat.com
When pastry chef Emily Savage learned she’d contracted Lyme disease and couldn’t consume or even work with mass-market flour any longer, she planted her own. Grain cultivation takes time, but today the young baker-turned-farmer is sitting on 4,000 lbs. of ancient grain seed and working with other farmers to raise, harvest and mill organic ancient flour. Many with gluten sensitivities, including Emily herself, can consume her array of breads, rolls and baked goods with no issue. See website for retail locations and farmers market updates.
