Just a day after launching fireworks and on our way to Letchworth State Park, my family of six traveled through time.
When I hear “museum,” I tend to picture a single building. That was my assumption about the Genesee Country Village & Museum in Mumford, which is a working 19th century village comprised of 68 restored historic structures. In fact, this is the largest living museum in New York and the third largest in the country.
If anyone tells you that history is dull, you can prove them wrong at this immersive site, where the past explodes to life. A visit has you journeying 62 miles out of Buffalo and two centuries back in time. Guides garbed in period attire play the parts of the residents and carry out the tasks of 19th century life as visitors explore.
The sprawling, 600-acre Historic Village includes dozens of houses of all sizes dating from 1810 to 1870. The masterstroke of Jack Wehle in the 1960s, buildings have been collected from places across the state and brought here.
“My grandfather was inspired to create this after visiting living history museums such as Old Sturbridge Village in Massachusetts,” Genesee Country Village & Museum President & CEO Becky Wehle shares. “He wanted to make better use of buildings that weren’t being cared for. People are amazed when they realize all the structures came from elsewhere.”
One of the many highlights is the Hamilton House, a gorgeous mansion that began its life in Corning. Inside, you can explore two floors that have been painstakingly restored. The Hyde House is shaped like an octagon, with some rooms being more unique than practical. Our guide pointed out a painting of triplets, noting how rare multiples were in the 19th century. That put things in perspective as we were visiting with our 16-year-old daughter, Izzy, and 11-year-old triplets, Nolan, Elliott and Bridget.
When my wife, Jenn, and the girls visited the school, they learned from a guide who played the part of the stern schoolmaster well. Bridget told me that if students didn’t have their hands on their desk, the teacher would assume they were passing notes. I ended up calling Jenn, not realizing she was sitting in a classroom. I’m sure the “teacher” wasn’t too pleased.
I loved the freedom we had to explore whatever caught our eye. There are gardens, two churches and a gazebo. Right out of “Field of Dreams,” Silver Base Ball Park hosts a national 19th century-style baseball tournament every August and regular games June through October.
We enjoyed two impressive ponds outside the Nature Center, where we discovered bullfrogs, painted turtles and eastern newts. “If I had these ponds at our house, forget video games,” enthused Elliott.
In one house, a guide boiled plants and roots to make dye. It’s very easy to believe that the guides live in this olden-time town. I could imagine a paperboy hawking the daily news in the town square.
“Since the pandemic, people have been getting back into traditional pursuits, whether it’s baking bread or tending a garden,” Becky said. “Old has become new again. We love being able to show people how things were different yet similar.”
Going forward, the museum is focused on maintaining its buildings and expanding the stories the guides share to cover topics such as enslavement and women’s rights.
As we come to terms with Izzy starting her final year of high school, it was a nice timeout to step back into a simpler era—when life was not connected by technology but forged together in community.
“That was different,” said Izzy. “It’s a cool museum.”
“But it doesn’t feel like a museum,” Nolan added.
That’s what makes this place so special.
Before you go
Season: The 2025 season lasts through Dec. 23.
Special events: The museum offers a broad lineup of educational workshops and dining (both modern and historic) in the Historic Village plus fall and holiday programming.
Accessibility: The modern facilities onsite are all accessible, as are parts of the historic structures. A trolley is available most weekends.
