Dining Out - Gusto
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Saturday, February 13, 2016

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Dining Out

By Andrew Z. Galarneau » Wednesday, February 10, 2016

The heavy barn doors had oxen yokes for handles. I pulled hard and walked into a room scented with hardwood smoke and an undercurrent of sizzling beef fat that wrapped around me like an old quilt. It was my first time at Scotch ’N Sirloin, but it felt like coming home. You see, I grew up in a house with woodstove... Read More

By Andrew Z. Galarneau » Wednesday, February 3, 2016

“Underpromise and overdeliver” is an oft-repeated axiom of business success. Restaurants – businesses that buy ingredients and fix them up to sell at a profit – are no exception. It may be even more important for new restaurants, places about which customers know nothing but the name. So even before it opened... Read More

By Andrew Z. Galarneau » Wednesday, January 27, 2016

Home Taste is the most far-flung star in the constellation of new Chinese restaurants arrayed around the University at Buffalo’s Amherst campus. Its generic Kenmore storefront offers no clue to its unique character. Home Taste is the only Chinese restaurant in town with a broad menu entirely devoid of Americanized... Read More

By Andrew Z. Galarneau » Wednesday, January 20, 2016

Buffalo had lots of German restaurants a generation ago, but today there is no kraut to be had in Kaisertown. Ulrich’s 1868 Tavern is the last German restaurant in city limits, which means Amherst now has more German restaurants than Buffalo. Lucky for me, as a hankering for spaetzle, schnitzel and potato pancakes drew... Read More

By Andrew Z. Galarneau » Wednesday, January 13, 2016

Since Sherry Biscario helped start the Poppyseed in 1989, she has lost count of women who told her how hard it was to convince men to eat at the Blasdell restaurant. It’s partly the name, which rings too tutti-frutti to some meat-and-potatoes types. It’s also the menu, which does, in fact, tilt vegward, with an... Read More

By Andrew Z. Galarneau » Wednesday, January 6, 2016

Generations of Americans have grown up believing “ramen” means instant noodle bricks, the cheapest factory-produced meal available at the supermarket, with all the flavor you would expect from a tinfoil packet of chemicals. Until recently, Buffalonians had to leave town to find the real Japanese deal, fresh noodles... Read More

By Andrew Z. Galarneau » Wednesday, December 23, 2015

A restaurant’s people are as important as its products. The face that greets you when you come in out of the cold and the hands that prepare your meal shape your experience more powerfully than its physical manifestations: the walls, the furniture, the plates. Over decades of steady performance, furniture and plates... Read More

By Andrew Z. Galarneau » Wednesday, December 16, 2015

When Merge opened in 2009, upscale American vegan dining was rare to nonexistent in Buffalo. Indian and Asian restaurants, cafes, upscale restaurants with a vegan dish, sure. But no place with an extensive selection of entrées designed to be delicious without animal products. There’s a big difference between... Read More

By Andrew Z. Galarneau » Wednesday, December 9, 2015

A colleague came to see me, looking stricken: “What happened to Star of India?” Beats me, I said. Hadn’t been to the Kenmore restaurant in years and an owner ago. “The chicken palak,” she said plaintively, her eyes searching mine for a sign I understood. Nope, I said, but I’ll see what I can find out. After... Read More

By Andrew Z. Galarneau » Wednesday, December 2, 2015

A former student was leaving town, and it was put up or shut up time on promises we’d get a drink together one day. He invited me to his local haunt after work, timed for a break in his packing schedule. Before the second beer I did the adult thing, and arranged for some solids to arrive, to soak up the ethanol. When... Read More

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